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Hypertufa Pots... as per Jean Jinnah

Making a Sand-cast Birdbath

     
  COASTAL FARMERS MARKET PRODUCE NOW AVAILABLE across from the Petrocan on Sundays.
     

New-to-the-market Flowers

 

See an garden artist using leaves or garden clippings

Did you know that urine makes a good fertilizer?

A study from Finland found that tomatoes fertilized with a mixture of diluted human urine and wood ash produced over four times as much fruit as those without. The fruit also had more beta-carotene and more protein than the pee-less ones. This is because human urine contains nutrients like nitrogen, potassium and phosphate, which are all great for plants.

You may be a little hesitant to collect your own urine, but remember fresh urine is basically sterile and odour-free. Also, using urine as fertilizer is not only another step toward a sustainable garden—think of the water you’ll save by not flushing—it’s the free alternative to the store-bought fertilizer.

• Urine should be diluted 10-15 parts water to 1 part urine for outside plants, 30-50 parts water for inside plants, and undiluted for lawns, trees and shrubs is just fine.

• The urine needs to be used fresh because as urine sits it turns into ammonia and becomes less and less nutritious for plants.

• Apply the homemade fertilizer to the roots and spread it around. Don’t put too much in one area and there’s no need to use it every time you water.

• If your plants are taking on a yellowish tinge or if they are not growing fruit, cut back on the urineapplication.

• Use the urine on your compost. Urine can speed up the composting process.

• Male urine is best because female urine burns the ground. Male urine also works to keep unwantedintruders out of the garden, too. Sprinkle some undiluted urine around the perimeter of the area youwant to keep safe to deter pests.

 
More about growing garlic

 

Garden Smart Event Update
     
Plant pruning tips
 
Steve Whysall on Lori Pickering of Coast Botanical Society
 
Christmas Decorating 101 (per Karen Dyck)

 

  What to do with Jack
Every October in Metro Vancouver, pumpkins are transformed into amazing Jack o’ lanterns. Perched on a window sill, porch or front stairs these works of art – historically used as lanterns to welcome deceased ancestors and ward off “Stingy Jack” – light up the night creating an enchanting atmosphere for Halloween. And afterwards…. what do you do with “Jack”? All too often, “Jack” is bagged, tossed and carted off to the landfill where he then rests in pieces.
If nearly one quarter of households across the region carve a pumpkin this Halloween, there will be approximately 200,000 pumpkins leftover on the morning of November 1. If each of those pumpkins weighs 5 kg, we will have 1 million kilograms, or 1000 metric tonnes, of pumpkin to manage. That’s about the same weight as 300 elephants.
Part of the region’s Zero Waste Challenge is committing to keeping as much material as possible out of the garbage. Residents are encouraged to find a use for their pumpkin rather than throw it in the garbage. Here’s what some people do with theirs…
Eat “Jack”
Pumpkins are not only edible but good for you since they are high in fibre and antioxidants including lutein, alpha and beta¬ carotene. So, keep the pulp after carving and check out the 100’s of delicious pumpkin recipes at www.epicurious.com or www.pumpkinnook.com/cookbook.htm. Don’t forget, those pumpkin seeds are nutritious and make a fine snack, check out some recipes on how to make them delicious. Not hungry at the moment? No problem, pumpkin puree is fast and easy to make and freeze for another day.
Put “Jack” in the Box
Worms like “Jack.” Whether Jack is finely chopped and mixed with yard trimmings, then placed to rest in the backyard composter or in your kitchen/balcony vermicompost bin, the worms will embrace “Jack” and thank you. And in return you’ll get nutrient-rich compost that you can use to grow next year’s “Jack.”
Information on composting.
Return “Jack” to his Roots
Dig a shallow trench in your vegetable or flower garden and place shredded pieces of “Jack” throughout. Fill in the trench and be reassured that you have diverted beneficial solid waste from landfill.
“Jack” has Curb Appeal
Some municipal yard waste collection programs will adopt “Jack.” Check with your municipality before putting “Jack” on the curb.

Pumpkin Trivia
It is estimated that over one million kilograms of pumpkins are carved up annually in the Lower Mainland and potentially sent to landfill.
Pumpkins are orange because they contain massive amounts of antioxidants such as lutein, alpha¬ and beta¬ carotene. These nutrients turn to vitamin A in the body.
The name pumpkin originated from "pepon" – the Greek word for "large melon."
Pumpkins are grown all over the world on six of the seven continents, with Antarctica being the sole exception.
Pumpkins are 90 percent water.
Using pumpkins as lanterns at Halloween is based on an ancient Celtic custom brought to America by Irish immigrants. All Hallows Eve on 31 October marked the end of the old Celtic calendar year, and on that night hollowed turnips, beets and rutabagas with a candle inside were placed on windowsills and porches to welcome home spirits of deceased ancestors and ward off evil spirits and a restless soul called "Stingy Jack," hence the name "Jack o' lantern.”
For years, the city of Keene, New Hampshire held the world record for the most lit pumpkins in one location. But, on October 26, 2007, Boston, Ma. shattered the record with 30,128 lit pumpkins! Rumor has it; they are still "glowing" over this feat.

Mulching is a yearly routine in my garden, and I look forward to it.
gardenwiseonline.ca by Sheena Adams

A layer of mulch in vegetable beds, around fruit trees and in ornamental shrub and perennial beds will benefit your garden in three main ways: it suppresses weed growth, reduces the need for water and adds organic matter to the soil.

When winter comes, mulch is a protective barrier against heavy rain, which compacts the soil. And it protects plant roots from harsh freeze and thaw cycles. The specially formulated mulches below will do all this and also provide many of the special nutritional needs of each part of your garden.

Easy Vegetable Garden Mulch
Mulch the vegetable garden in early summer, after young seedlings are nestled in. When adding the mulch around new plants, leave a 5-cm (2-in.) space around tender stems.

2 bags chicken manure
1 bag leaf mould or garden compost
250 mL (1 cup) greensand
250 mL (1 cup) glacial rock dust

Mix and apply a 5-cm (2-in.) layer to vegetable beds after planting.

Fruit Tree Special
Apply mulch to the drip line around fruit trees to produce colourful, tasty and long-keeping fruit. If the trees are growing in the lawn, just rake the mulch into the lawn up to the tree drip line.

2 bags fish compost
1 bag mushroom compost
250 mL (1 cup) organic granular fruit tree blend fertilizer
250 mL (1 cup) bone meal
125 mL (1/2 cup) greensand

Mix and apply a 5-cm (2-in.) layer to the drip line of the tree.

Shrub and Perennial Beds
Shrub and perennial beds will look fantastic after they receive a layer of mulch. For the best effect, do a little housecleaning first: Weed, then cut back or remove any spent perennial foliage, and then prune any dead, damaged or diseased branches from shrubs.

3 bags fish compost
1 bag mushroom compost
250 mL (1 cup) bone meal
250 mL (1 cup) greensand
250 mL (1 cup) all-purpose organic fertilizer

Mix and apply a 5-cm (2-in.) layer over shrub and perennial beds.

Rock Garden and Sedum Mulch
Although most rockery plants are drought tolerant, they still need nourishment. A 2.5-cm (1-in.) layer of this mulch is sufficient. First, pull weeds and divide any plants that are overcrowded. Remove winter debris, such as pinecones, leaves or twigs. Restack rocks that might have come loose, replant divisions and add the mulch. The last step, to help the divisions settle in, is to water.

1 bag turkey grit, available at garden or feed stores
250 mL (1 cup) bone meal
250 mL (1 cup) organic granular fertilizer
Mix and apply a 2.5-cm (1-in.) layer in the rock garden.

You can use any size of grit - fine, medium or coarse. You can also use a fine volcanic rock, such as zonolite.

Evergreen Hedge Mulch
Hedges and evergreen trees are often neglected when it comes to feeding and mulching, but an annual application will help keep them healthy and vigorous. The soil under a mature hedge is often dry, nutrient-depleted and full of debris shed by the hedge. Before applying the mulch, rake under the hedge to remove debris, then apply the mulch and water it in.

1 bag fish compost
1 bag steer manure
250 mL (1 cup) bone meal
250 mL (1 cup) greensand

Mix and apply a 5-cm (2-in.) layer under coniferous or broadleaf evergreen hedges and trees.

Lawn Booster
Rake a layer of mulch into your lawn each summer to break down thatch, add nutrients and reduce the need for water. The soil will be cooler, a benefit for the natural aerators in our lawn, earthworms.

1 bag steer manure
1 bag mushroom manure
1 bag fish compost
250 mL (1 cup) bone meal
250 mL (1 cup) glacial rock dust

Two weeks prior to raking in a 5-cm (2-in.) layer of compost, lime your lawn. The lime will sweeten the soil, making the nutrients more available. On the day of application, mow your lawn. Leave the clippings on and rake them in with your lawn booster. Water after application (consider watering with a compost tea).

Summer Rose Mulch
Not only do roses like the added winter protection of mulch, but the nutrients are essential for fragrant, colourful and prolific blooms. A healthy plant is also better able to protect itself against the pests and diseases that can plague roses.

1 bag mushroom manure
250 mL (1 cup) organic granular rose food
125 mL (1/2 cup) bat guano
125 mL (1/2 cup) bone meal
5 chopped garlic cloves

Mix all ingredients except the garlic cloves and apply a 5-cm (2-in.) layer to the drip line of the rose. Tuck the chopped garlic in under the rose drip line; the garlic provides sulphur, which helps resistance to black spot.

Rhododendron, Azalea and Camellia Mulch
Rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas are shallow-rooted plants that really do appreciate that extra layer of protection against summer heat and winter cold. Applying mulch in the summer gives them the extra nutrients they need to push out big buds for the following spring.

1 bag fish compost
125 mL (1/2 cup) greensand
125 mL (1/2 cup) organic granular rhodo food
250 mL (1 cup) used coffee grounds

The fish compost is slightly acidic and the coffee grounds also add acidity, while the greensand contains necessary trace elements. These plants are shallow-rooted, so chicken and steer manure should be avoided, to avoid burning their roots.

Steve Whysall has been the garden columnist for The Vancouver Sun for almost 20 years. His full-colour In the Garden page appears every Friday in the At Home section. He is the author of four bestselling books – The Vancouver Sun’s Best Plant Picks, 100 Best Plants for the Coastal Garden, The Blooming Great Gardening Book, and 100 Best Plants for Ontario Gardens. Three of his books were No. 1 bestsellers in B.C. In 1999, he was the first recipient of the Communicator of the Year Award, given by B.C. Landscape and Nursery Association. Leave your comments below for Steve Whysall or e-mail him directly swhysall@vancouversun.com

Flowering bulbs and plants deer don't eat http://communities.canada.com/vancouversun/blogs/inthegarden/archive/2008/10/18/flowering-bulbs-and-plants-deer-don-t-eat.aspx
What kind of spring-flowering bulbs can you plant that deer won’t eat?

Gardeners in Metro Vancouver are more troubled by raccoons, skunks and squirrels than by deer, but for gardeners who do live in deer country, it can be a frustrating experience trying year after year to grow flowers that deer won't chew to pieces or nosh into oblivion.

The Dutch have done some testing and are pretty confident that if you plant any kind of narcissus you will be guaranteed flowers in spring. Of the wide range of cultivars of narcissus, the Netherland Bulb Information Centre recommends 'Ice Follies', 'Ice King', Jetfire', 'Geranium' and 'Quail' as totally deer resistant. In other words, they "almost never eat" them.

Other deer-proof bulbs include alliums -- Allium bulgaricum and Allium giganteum (although I reckon most ornamental onions are safe); quamash (Camassia esculenta), glory-of-the snow (Chionodoxa 'Pink Giant'), winter aconite (Eranthis), crown imperial (Fritillaria), grape hyacinth (Muscari latifolium), English bluebells (Scilla nutans) and spring star flower (Triteleia 'Wisely Blue').

What other plants are deer resistant?
The real problem is that when they are hungry, deer will eat pretty much anything. They have even been known to eat the bark off trees when they are starving. Various strategies have been tried in a bid to thwart them. Some gardeners use a technique called "camouflage gardening" to gain the upper hand. This involves growing plants that have strong aromatic foliage to create a scent barrier that hides the presence of other plants. Since deer rely on their sense of smell to decide whether something is safe to eat or not, the idea is to fill the garden with as many strong odorous plants as possible as to confuse the deer and keep them at bay.
Lavender, rosemary, oregano, thyme and sage are a few plants with scented foliage that are most useful.

Some gardeners have tried creative alternatives on this theme, such as hanging pieces of soap from trees. One Ontario gardener who did this claims it kept deer away for two years. Others have resorted to homemade and commercial repellents. Plantskydd is a product that is supposed to deter not only deer but also elk and rabbits. Other products on the market include Deer-Away, Skoot and Tree Guard. Homemade potions feature everything from rotten eggs mixed with soap and garlic to brews made from baking powder, egg yolk and water. Human or dog hair scattered around the garden is also thought to do the trick. Advocates of these peculiar concoctions claim dramatic results. Miles Hunter, of Hunter Garden Centre in Vancouver, says a light sprinkling of bone meal over a planting area will deter deer, especially from nibbling spring flowers.

Prickly and poisonous plants seem the most likely to be immune to deer. Many gardeners claim to have had success growing foxgloves (digitalis), monkshood (aconitum), castor bean plant (Ricinus communis) and euphorbia (spurge), all of which contain toxic chemicals that deter deer from eating them. Prickly plants such as Ilex aquifolium (English holly) and berberis (barberry) are also reported to be highly resistant.

Deer also seem indifferent to fuzzy- and grey-leaved plants like artemisia (mugwort), lady's mantle (Alchemilla mollis) and Stachys byzantina (lamb's ear) as well as popular woodland perennials like bleedinghearts (dicentra), columbines (aquilegia), daylilies (hemerocallis) and ferns. Whether any of these plants are truly deer-proof is more a matter of anecdotal testimony than scientific proof.